Brian Fowke's - Christmas Entertaining at Home 2009
Menu Matching - Moderns & Classics

This is a fun way to turn a simple dinner party into an event fit for foodies - without being pretentious or 'over-the-top'. This is a host/hostess dream menu. All the food can be prepped the day before and easily assembled within minutes in front of the guests. Talking points will be; the different textures and aromas created by the different cooking techniques. Please do not hesitate to contact me directly if you have any further questions on this menu.

Menu

Powell River Little Wing Oysters
on the 1/2 shell with Jonagold Mignonette
...and pan-fried with tarragon aioli

Local BC Spot Prawns
in the shell with classic cocktail sauce
...and sous vide with lemon foam

Wild BC Coho Winter Salmon
sauteed with sauce bonne femme
...and sous vide with smoked tea broth

Canadian Prime NY Striploin Steak
simply sauteed with peppercorn sauce
...and sous vide and finished with smoked sea salt

Preserved Summer BC Strawberries
birch syrup sabayon

Oysters

On the Half Shell with Mignonette

Recipe: How to shuck an Oyster:

• Hold the oyster in a bar towel (or glove) with the flatter side up
• Using the oyster knife like a key, locate the seam near the hinge, insert the tip and blade and "unlock" the oyster with a twist
• Work along the seam in the same manner keeping the blade level
• Hold the oyster so as not to spill the "liquor"
• Run the sharp part of the blade between muscle and shell and sever the cord that binds them where it joins the shell
• Unhinge and discard the top shell
• Sever the cord on the lower shell

Recipe: Jonagold Mignonette

• ½  cup dry white wine
• 4 tablespoon Jonagold organic apple vinegar
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• white pepper to taste
• salt as needed

Method

• Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let flavours infuse for 24 hours.

Pan-fried with Tarragon Aioli

Recipe: Marinated Oysters; sous-vide:

• Place 12 shucked oysters in a food grade vacuum bag.
• Add 3 sprigs fresh tarragon, 2 tbsp olive oil, 1tsp sea salt and the zest of one lemon
• Vacuum seal the bag and allow to sit (in the cooler) for 4 hours
• Bread for pan-frying

Recipe: Pan-fried Oysters:

• 3 eggs
• 12 oysters
• 1 c. unseasoned bread crumbs
• 1/2 c. all-purpose flour (approx.)

Method

• Place the flour and bread crumbs (Japanese panko bread crumbs are the best) in separate metal mixing bowls
• Crack the eggs into a bowl and beat them well with a fork, season with salt and pepper
• Remove the oysters from the sous-vide back and drain well.
• Toss each oyster in the flour, coat it well, and shake off as much excess as you can.
• Dip each oyster completely in the beaten egg, then roll it in the bread crumbs to coat it on all sides.
• Heat 1/4 inch of oil (plus 1tsp butter) in a small skillet over medium heat.
• Test the oil by dropping a minute pinch of flour into it. If the flour bubbles, the oil is ready. Don't let it get too hot or the oysters will burn.
• Use tongs to lay each oyster in the oil without crowding the pan. The oil should sizzle rapidly - this is important.
• Cook the oysters on both sides until golden brown, about 30 seconds or less per side.

Recipe: Tarragon Aioli

• ¼  cup mayonnaise
• 1 to 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon leaves
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
• 3 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
•  Salt
  

Method

• Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let flavours infuse for 24 hours.
   

Spot Prawns

‘In the Shell' with Classic Cocktail Sauce

Recipe: Poached Spot Prawns (Court Boullon)

• 2lbs Spot Prawns, shell on
• 3 litres water (about three quarts)
• ½  cup lemon juice
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) salt
• 1 large carrot, sliced
• ½  medium onion, sliced
• 2 tsp (10 ml) white peppercorns
• 1 bay leaf
• A few sprigs of thyme

Method

• Bring all the ingredients (except the prawns) up to the boil and let simmer for 10 minutes.
• Place the Prawns in the court bouillon and cook for 2 minutes (after it returns to the boil)
• Immediately drain off all the water and cool the Prawns on a baking sheet.
• Refrigerate for 12 hours before serving (covered)

Recipe: Classic Cocktail Sauce

• ½  cups Chilli sauce
• ¼  cup Lemon juice, fresh
• ¼  cup Horseradish, freshly grated
• 3 Tbsp Celery, minced
• 3 Tbsp Green onion, minced
• 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp Chile pepper

Method

• Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let flavours infuse for 24 hours.

Sous-vide with Lemon Foam

Recipe: Lemon Foam

• ½ cup Milk
• 1 tsp Lemon oil
• Zest of Lemon
• 1 Tbsp Lemon juice
• 1 tsp Lecithin

Method

• Add the lemon oil, zest and juice to the milk
• Gently bring the milk to a simmer
• Leave to one side to allow the flavours to infuse
• When required add the lecithin to the milk and blend with a hand blender to foam the sauce

Recipe: Sous-vide Prawns

• See appendix
  

Wild Salmon

Sautéed with Sauce Bonne Femme

Recipe: Sauce Bonne Femme

• ¼  teaspoon ground white pepper
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 2 teaspoons butter
• 2 tablespoons chopped shallots
• ¾  cup dry white wine
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup wild BC mushrooms, sliced
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• ½  teaspoon salt

Method

• Sauté the shallots and mushrooms in the butter and olive oil until soft.
• Add the white wine and reduce by half over a medium heat
• Add the cream and reduce by half
• Season with salt and pepper and finish with the parsley

Sous-vide with Smoked Tea Broth

Recipe: Lapsand-Souchong Fish Broth

• 2 cups light fish stock
• ¾  cups water
• 3 Lapsang-Souchong tea bags
• Coarse sea salt

Method

• Bring the water and fish stock to the boil
• Add the tea and remove from heat
• Allow to steep for 30 minutes
• Strain and season with sea salt

Recipe: Sous-vide Salmon

• See appendix
   

Striploin

Seared with Peppercorn Sauce

Recipe: Peppercorn Sauce

• 3 cloves Garlic (diced)
• 2 large Shallots (diced)
• ¼  cup Green Peppercorns
• 1 cup Veal Stock
• ¼  cup Cognac
• 1 ½ cup Heavy Cream
• Butter

Method

• Sauté the garlic and shallots, in butter, over medium-low heat until soft
• Deglaze the pan with the cognac and cook until all the cognac has evaporated
• Add the veal stock and reduce by half over medium heat
• Add the cream and the peppercorns, reduce by half
• Season with salt (and pepper ~ if needed)

Sous-vide and finished with Smoked Salt

Recipe: Sous-vide Striploin

• See appendix
   

Strawberries

With Birch Syrup Sabayon

Recipe: Preserved Whole Strawberries

• 3 cups strawberries, washed and hulled
• 2 cups sugar
• 3 tbls lemon juice (with zest)
• 1 bottle white wine - your preference
• 1 tbls pectin - liquid

Method

• Gently mix the berries with the sugar and lemon. Let sit, at room temperature for 3 hours
• Add berry mixture and wine to a large pot and bring to the boil. Immediately remove strawberries
• Add pectin and boil until reduced by ½ and liquid begins to ‘set'
• Return strawberries to liquid and place in mason jars
• Seal jars and process for 5 minutes
• Let sit for at least 2 weeks before using

Recipe: Birch Syrup Sabayon

• 3 Egg Yolks
• 2oz Vanilla Sugar
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 3 tbsp Birch Syrup

Method

• Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale and frothy, in a bain-marie (bowl over a saucepan of water), the water should not be boiling.
• Slowly add the wine, whisking constantly.
• Bring the water to the boil, whisk until the sauce thickens.

Appendex

About Sous-vide Cooking.

Sous-vide cooking produces extremely tender and flavourful results in meats, poultry and seafood. But it has its risks if not prepared properly. Please visit the following webpage for basic food safety facts:

http://www.canfightbac.org/cpcfse/en/cookwell/mrsc-factsheets/

Before attempting sous-vide cooking at home I would recommend reading Sous Vide Cuisine by Joan Roca (available at Books for Cooks). This book takes a HAACP approach to safe sous-vide cooking.

Sous Vide Techniques for this Menu

Basic equipment

1. Vacuum sealer machine - heat proof bags
2. Immersion water circulator/heater
   • SUB: pot on the stove with a candy thermometer and a wooden spoon to stir the water every minute

Method

1. Place all ingredients into heat proof plastic bags and seal
2. The bags can be filled up to 24 hours in advance and kept in a cooler
3. After cooked for desired time, cut open bag, drain excess moisture and serve immediately
   1. If preferred for texture and appearance - a quick sear in a hot pan with butter on the top (serving) side.
4. Season the protein only after it has been sous vide

Recipes

Prawns - 58.8f for 12 minutes

• 3pc 13/15 size prawns (per person)
• 1tbls butter
• 1tbls olive oil
• 2 sprig thyme
• 1 bay laurel leaf
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
• 1 lemon - zest only

Salmon - 45f for 10 minutes

• 4oz center cut salmon peice (per person)
• 1tbls butter
• 1tbls olive oil
• 2 sprig thyme
• 1 bay laurel leaf
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
• 1 lemon - zest only

Striploin - 54.4.2f for 15 minutes

• 6oz striploin steak, at least 1 inch thick, all external fat removed (per person)
• 1tbls butter
• 1tbls olive oil
• 2 sprig rosemary
• 5pc roasted garlic
• 1 tsp peppercorns
• 1oz red wine

Following are the most basic of guidelines for Sous-vide cooking

• Fresh beef and other fresh red meat are cooked to 130F / 54.4C. This is termed medium rare.
• Tough, fresh red meat  such as flat iron steak, short ribs etc are cooked at either 130F/54.4C or 136F/58.8C, from 24 to 72 hours depending on the cut and how tough it is. This gives time for the collagen to break down and make a tender result.
• Tender cuts of pork, such as tenderloin are cooked to 140F/60C. Trichinosis is killed at 137F.
• Chicken and turkey gets cooked to 140F/58C, make sure to follow the sterilization times.
• Fresh duck breast is cooked at 130F/54.4C. Duck confit is 180F/82.2C for 8-12 hours.

Brian Fowke's Home Method - Yorkshire Pudding

Recipe:

Utensils:

• 2 Mixing Bowl
• Whisk
• Wooden Spoon
• Yorkshire pudding tin (or any small, round flat-ish baking tin)
• Oil / Lard

 Method:

(I do not remember where I got this recipe - but it has been a favourite for years and works well in both Vancouver and Whistler, even with the elevation difference)

1. Sift flour into a large mixing bowl.

2. In a separate bowl crack both eggs and whisk into the milk for 5 minutes

3. Make a well in the centre of the flour and beatin the egg - milk mixture to a thin pancake batter consistency. Whisky hard to incorporate a maximum amount of air

4. Yorkshire puddings take about 35 minutes to cook so these should go into the oven when you pull your roast/bird/entree out of the oven to rest

5. The oven needs to be preheated to around 450 Fahrenheit (230 Celsius)

6. Add a ¼ inch of lard to each individual pudding tray and bring to heat in the oven

7. 3/4 fill the Yorkshire pudding mixture into the preheated tray sections - do not overfill

8. Put them in the oven for ten minutes - reduce the heat to 350f and cook an additional 20 - 25 minutes

9. Avoid opening the oven door as this will cause the Yorkshire puddings to fall

Last of the season strawberry

Autumn Dinner Party on the West Coast
(all recipes are for six people)

Menu

OYAMA CHORIZO LOMO
raclette cheese crisp, nugget potato, Okanagan apple

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP
pulled duck, juniper crème fraîche, curry leaf

WINTER COHO SALMON CEVICHE
potato pancake, pickled onions, saffron aioli

18 HOUR BRAISED VANCOUVER ISLAND LAMB BELLY
minted pea puree, organic corn polenta, peppered yogurt

BIRCH SYRUP & AUTUMN FRUIT
cinnamon sabayon, cranberry sugar

Recipes:

OYAMA CHORIZO LOMO
raclette cheese crisp, nugget potato, Okanagan apple

Shopping List

• 12oz Oyama Chorizo Lomo, sliced thin
• ½ lbs BC Raclette Cheese, grated course
• 6 medium Nugget Potatoes, cut in ½
• 2 cups Chicken stock
• 1 cinnamon stick
• ½ cup brown sugar
• Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
• Freshly cracked pepper

Recipe

• Poach the potatoes in chicken stock (and salt to taste) until soft - cool when fork tender. In an oven proof dish place the potatoes, flat side up. Cover with Raclette cheese and cook under a 500f broiler until the cheese is crispy, about 7 minutes. Serve warm
• Cook the apples in a covered oven proof dish with the cinnamon stick, sugar and butter for 45 minutes at 375f. Serve warm

Plating

• Layer the chorizo down the center of a plate
• Place 2pc of potato on the plate with the apple in between
• Finish with olive oil and freshly grated pepper

 
ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP
pulled duck, juniper crème fraîche, curry leaf

Shopping List

Pulled Duck

• 12oz duck leg
• 3 cups duck fat
• 2 bay leaves

Crème Fraîche

• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 tsp juniper berry, crushed
• Salt and pepper to taste

Butternut Squash Soup

• 2 large butternut squash, peeled and cubed
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, grated
• 3 Tbsp butter
• 8 cups chicken stock
• 1 Tbsp nutmeg
• 3 cups heavy cream
• Salt and pepper to taste

• 4 sprigs curry leaves

Recipe

Pulled Duck

• Place the duck in an oven proof dish and cover with duck fat.
• Add the bay leaf and cook for 4 hours at 200f
• Remove from heat and allow cooling in fat.

Juniper Crème Fraîche

• Combine all ingredients and place in a glass bowl
• All to sit at room temperature for 24 hours
• Chill - use within 24 hours

Butternut Squash Soup

• Heat a large pot over medium-high heat. Add butter and onion.. Cook until onion is soft, about 3 minutes
• Add garlic and cook until translucent, about 1 minute
• Add squash and broth. Bring to a boil. Reduce and cook at a simmer for 40 minutes
• Add the nutmeg
• Puree the soup
• Add the cream and season with salt and pepper to taste
• Garnish with curry leaves

Plating

• Ladle soup into a warm bowl
• Garnish with 2oz of duck and a tsp of crème fraîche

WINTER COHO SALMON CEVICHE
potato pancake, pickled onions, saffron aioli

Shopping List

Potato Pancake

• 4 medium potatoes , cooked
• 1 medium onion
• 4 Tbls  duck fat
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup flour
• Salt and pepper to taste

Pickled Onion

• 2 red onions
• ½ cup apple cider vinegar
• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Salmon Ceviche

• 2 lbs Coho salmon, fillet
• 1 lemon, juice and zest
• 1 lime, juice and zest
• 1 grapefruit, juice and zest
• 1 bunch dill, coarsely chopped

Saffron Aioli

• Tbls warm water
• Dash of saffron threads, crushed
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 1 ½ tsp balsamic vinegar
• 1/4tsp salt
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 Tbls extra-virgin olive oil

Recipe

Potato Pancake

• Peel and coarsely grate the cooked potato and mix with the onion
• Add the eggs, flour and salt and stir well together
• Heat a heavy fry pan over medium heat, add the duck fat
• Each pancake is 2oz
• When the edges are brown and crisp, flip it over and cook the other side
• Pickled Onion
• Slice the onions thinly and add the remaining ingredients
• All to sit in the cooler for 10 minutes before serving

Salmon Ceviche

• Marinate the filet of salmon with all the ingredients for 4 hours in the cooler
• Thinly slice

Saffron Aioli

• Combine warm water and saffron in a bowl, and let steep for 30 minutes.
• Add mayonnaise, vinegar, salt, and garlic to saffron mixture, stirring well and whisk in olive oil

Plating

• Smear 1oz of aioli down the center of the plate
• Place the potato pancake just above the center of the plate
• Layer 2oz of thinly sliced salmon ceviche just below the pancake
• Place 1oz of pickled onion just below the salmon
• Optional garnish, lemon, capers and freshly ground pepper
  

18 HOUR BRAISED VANCOUVER ISLAND LAMB BELLY
minted pea puree, organic corn polenta, peppered yogurt

Shopping List

• 3 lbs Lamb belly
• Salt for brine

Minted pea puree

• 1lbs fresh peas, shucked
• ¼ cup fresh mint
• 1 shallot, chopped
• 1 cup chicken stock
• ¼ cup butter
• Salt and pepper to taste

Organic Corn Polenta

• 3 cups milk, whole
• 1 clove garlic, micro planed
• 1 cup corn - kernels
• 1 ½ cup organic corn meal, course
• ¼ cup olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Peppered Yogurt

• 1 cup yogurt, full fat
• 2 Tbls pepper, freshly ground
• Salt to taste

Recipe

Lamb Belly

• Cure the lamb in a brine (1/2 cup kosher salt to 1 gallon of water) for 24 hours
• Slow smoke with cherry wood for 18 hours at 200f
• Remove the lamb and let sit for 2 hours, wrapped with foil
• Pull the lamb with a fork

Minted Pea

• Bring the chicken stock to the boil and add the peas. Simmer for 3 mintes
• Add the mint and remove from the heat
• Place the a blender and add the butter, seasoning and shallot and puree until smooth
• Strain through a course mesh strainer
• Chill in the cooler quickly

Polenta

• Roast the corn in a dry pan over medium - high heat until caramelized
• Add the garlic and the milk and scald
• Quickly add all the corn meal and whisk until thick like porridge and smooth
• Add the olive oil and season
• Remove from heat

Peppered Yogurt

• Mix the yogurt and pepper
• Season to taste with salt
• Let sit in the cooler for 24 hours before serving

Plating

• On a large plate streak 2oz of chilled minted pea in a swoosh from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock
• Place 4oz of soft polenta in the center of the plate
• Place the pulled lamb offset on the polenta
• Spoon 2oz of peppered yogurt on the lamb
• Optional garnish, fresh leaves of mint and cracked pepper

BIRCH SYRUP & AUTUMN FRUIT
cinnamon sabayon, cranberry sugar

Shopping List

• 3 Harrow Pears
• 3 Pink Lady Apples
• 6 figs
• 1 cup Birch syrup
• 2 cup Sabayon

Sabayon

• 3 egg yolk
• ¼ cup sugar
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tsp cinnamon, ground
• 1 cup birch syrup, from the fruit marinate (or Grand Marnier)
• 1 cup cranberry sugar

Method

Fruit

• Peel and de-core the apples and pears. Cut into 1/8^th's. Cut the figs in half
• Marinated, for at least an hour, all the fruit in the Birch syrup at room temperature

Sabayon

• Whisk the egg yolks over a double boiler for 30 seconds and add the sugar, extract and Birch syrup. Continue whisking until the consistency of heavy cream.
• Add cinnamon

Plating

• Arrange berries in a shallow bowl and spoon sabayon over top. Lightly brown under a broiler for 45 seconds.

Trout Lake Farmer's Market

Special Thanks to